The Merlese grape of Emilia-Romagna represents one of the most fascinating oenological innovations of the territory, combining the structured freshness of Sangiovese with the velvety softness of Merlot. To best enhance it at the table, sommeliers recommend serving it at a temperature of 16/18 °C, pairing it with rich dishes of Romagna cuisine such as savory pasta dishes with ragù and blue cheeses. This variety gives life to an elegant Rubicone IGT red wine, capable of combining tradition and gastronomic avant-garde in a single glass.
What is the Merlese grape and where this variety was born
The Merlese grape is a red grape variety born in Emilia-Romagna as a Sangiovese Merlot cross, developed to combine the best agronomic and organoleptic characteristics of these two historic varieties. This exclusive innovation was born in the vineyards of Castel San Pietro Terme, precisely within Podere Liano, one of the historic estates of Umberto Cesari. The birth of this variety is the result of a multi-year scientific collaboration with the Faculty of Agriculture of the University of Bologna, aimed at creating a grape perfectly adapted to the microclimate and clay-limestone soils of the region.
Merlese is not simply a blend in the cellar, but a true new grape variety. From a viticultural point of view, this plant inherits the resistance and deep bond with the territory typical of Sangiovese, while benefiting from the early ripening and versatility of Merlot. The result is a unique variety that makes it possible to produce complex, elegant wines capable of expressing the richness of the local terroir in a completely new way.
Who produces the Merlese grape in Emilia-Romagna
The Umberto Cesari winery is the creator and sole exclusive producer of the Merlese grape in Emilia-Romagna, cultivating this variety in its own environmentally sustainable certified vineyards. Founded in 1964, the winery has dedicated decades to research and to the promotion of the regional wine heritage. The ultimate expression of this experimental journey is found in Umberto, a red wine produced with 100% Merlese grapes, created to celebrate the founder’s sixty harvests and to propose a contemporary vision of Emilia-Romagna viticulture.
The production of Merlese is part of a broader environmental protection project. The winery adopts SQNPI (National Quality System for Integrated Production) certified integrated pest management practices, which involve the use of products of natural origin, precision water resource management, and the maintenance of soil vitality through grass cover and green manure. Choosing this wine therefore means supporting the spread of sustainable red wines, where scientific innovation works in harmony with the preservation of the hilly landscape.
The sensory profile of the Rubicone IGT red wine from Merlese grapes
The sensory profile of Merlese, expressed in the Rubicone IGT red wine appellation, is distinguished by an extraordinary balance between the acidic freshness of Sangiovese and the warm envelopment of Merlot. To the eye, this wine presents itself with an intense ruby red color, enriched by brilliant violet reflections that testify to its youth and liveliness. On the nose, it offers a wide and multifaceted bouquet, dominated by intense notes of cherry and small forest fruits that gently fade into elegant spicy nuances of black pepper and licorice.
In the mouth, the structure is rich and full-bodied, yet supported by a fine and velvety tannic texture that is never aggressive. The vibrant acidity inherited from Sangiovese gives a pleasant freshness that cleanses the palate, while the typical softness of Merlot envelops the palate in a long and persistent finish. To preserve this complex aromatic harmony, the wine is vinified in modern concrete and cocciopesto tanks, and then completes its refinement with six months of rest in the bottle before commercialization.
Tips for pairing the wine with traditional Romagna cuisine
The ideal pairing for the Merlese grape involves combining it with rich and savory dishes of Romagna cuisine, where the natural acidity of the wine can contrast the fatness of the food and its softness enhances its flavors. Sommeliers suggest pairing it with the historic first courses of the region, such as homemade tagliatelle seasoned with savory game, wild boar, or hare ragù. The structure of the wine perfectly supports the complexity of the sauce, while the smooth tannin cleanses the palate with every bite.
Another highly successful pairing is with black rice with sausage and other first courses characterized by a spicy or greasy component. As for second courses, this red pairs magnificently with chicken cacciatore, stewed rabbit, and braised red meats. One must not forget the classic Romagna appetizer: a platter of traditional cold cuts (such as Mora Romagnola salami and Parma ham) served hot alongside tigelle and piadina, where the freshness of Merlese balances the sapidity of the cured meats and the fatty component of the lard.
Avant-garde gastronomic pairings: the choices of sommeliers
For fine dining menus and contemporary catering, sommeliers propose avant-garde pairings that exploit the versatility of Merlese to go beyond the boundaries of local tradition. A fitting example is the pairing with intense blue cheeses, such as goat’s blue cheese or long-aged natural gorgonzola. In this case, the fruity sweetness of Merlese contrasts with the pungency of the cheese, creating a perfect taste harmony in which neither of the two elements overwhelms the other.
Furthermore, while a structured Sangiovese Riserva requires long years of aging to smooth out its harshness and pair with complex haute cuisine dishes, Merlese offers immediate readiness and softness. This allows restaurateurs to propose innovative pairings even with modern Asian cuisine dishes based on lacquered duck or spiced meats, where the sweet-spicy note of Merlot meets the acidity of Sangiovese in a play of contrasts perfect for the most demanding international clientele.
How to serve and preserve Merlese at the table
To best appreciate the qualities of this wine, sommeliers recommend serving it at a temperature between 16 °C and 18 °C, using medium-sized wine glasses. A temperature that is too cold would tend to stiffen the tannins, while an excessively warm temperature would accentuate the alcoholic perception, covering the delicate spicy and fruity notes. If stored in the cellar at a constant temperature (about 12–15 °C) and away from direct light, the bottle of Merlese can evolve positively for several years, becoming enriched with even more complex tertiary nuances.
When you decide to uncork a bottle of Umberto, a long decanting is not strictly necessary, but it is recommended to open the bottle about half an hour before serving to allow the wine to oxygenate gradually and express the totality of its olfactory bouquet.
Sustainability and innovation: the future of viticulture in Emilia-Romagna
The birth of the Merlese grape variety demonstrates how the future of regional viticulture is closely linked to sustainability and applied scientific research in the field. Through the adoption of precision viticulture (which makes use of dedicated weather stations, vegetative vigor maps, and parcel micro-vinifications), producers can optimize interventions in the vineyard, drastically reducing environmental impact. This technological approach makes it possible to preserve soil vitality, protect local biodiversity, and guarantee the maximum expression of the terroir in each individual cultivated parcel.
Choosing sustainable red wines is not only an ethical choice linked to safeguarding the planet, but it is also a guarantee of qualitative excellence for the final consumer. The meticulous attention paid from the vineyard to the cellar guarantees a clean, expressive final product capable of telling the true essence of Romagna. If you wish to discover this extraordinary oenological innovation for yourself, you can purchase the dedicated bottle directly on the official online shop of Umberto, bringing a piece of the history and future of Italian viticulture to your table.